By: Liv Stecker
If you take a left on 4th street in downtown
Northport, and head a block past Tony’s market, you will find a tall gray
building, sided in crumbling asphalt shingles, with a slight Northwestern lean.
This is Kuk’s Tavern, and in addition to being the only place you can drink a
cold beer in town right now, it’s also a little piece of Washington State
History. Staking their claim as the oldest licensed tavern in Washington State,
operating since 1889, Kuk’s has yet to face a contender for the title. Over a
century of scandal and intrigue are watered down inside these walls with the
daily gossip of a sleepy little town populated by the descendants of the
original settlers. This place has seen it all – from the boomtown ladies of the
night to the stray bullet from a careless bystander. Felons and philanthropists
grace the memories of the tavern, along with every imaginable traveler by
train, steamship, automobile and even airplane.
Kuk’s Tavern, then Skrobian’s, was founded in 1889, the same
year that the town of Northport was incorporated and Washington became a state.
It was constructed on the lower level of Northport, now Columbia Avenue, which
used to be called Front Street and was the main business thoroughfare along the
railroad tracks facing the river during Northport’s boomtown days. The building was moved to the present
location on the corner of Summit and 4th Street in an effort to
avoid floods. In 1889, Northport wasn’t the same little map dot that you will
find today, but instead a bustling industrial community with a busy shipbuilding
yard, an operating smelter and brisk international commercial traffic by rail
and water. With a peaking population nearing 2000 souls, Skrobian’s Bar answered
the call for another tavern in the midst of a sudden upswell of hotels,
churches, pool halls and yes, bars. 28 total bars at the highest count, most of
which featured additional “hospitality” in the rooms upstairs, including
Skrobians, which contained 8 rooms just big enough for a “bed, a dresser and a
little bit of fun.” Catering to the needs of growing numbers of men working in
the local mines, at the smelter and the shipyard, Northport provided
recreation, religion and refreshment at every turn. The upstairs floor of the
old tavern is now empty and inhabited by nothing more than a few scantily clad
mannequins and a thick layer of dust, playing host to memories that we can only
imagine.
Early Northport boasted huge steamships running between
Spokane and the Kootenai Lakes in British Columbia, most of which were built in
Northport and at the Little Dalles, just down the river. International train
routes and a young airport that at one time attracted aviation fanatics from
around the country were fully operational in those days, hosting air shows and
fly-ins and bringing the outside world to Northport. The steamships and the
airport may be gone, but the memories of an important international port that
was quite nearly the Stevens County Seat live on in the history of this little
tavern.
Kuk's remains standing after the 1914 fire |
The year after it was built, when a forest fire escaped it’s
natural setting and devoured much of Northport, Kuk's (then Skrobian’s) was one
of the few buildings that remained standing. The building was relocated from
the former downtown along Front Street in 1901, pulled on logs by draft horses
up the hill to a higher, flood-proof plane. The back of the bar at one point
featured a soda fountain where the younger set could enjoy an ice cream soda
while their parents sat at the bar and caught up on local gossip. The tavern
was one of the only remaining buildings from the fire of 1914 that destroyed
most of Northport’s commercial buildings.
tokens from "Fred's Pool Hall |
Skrobian’s survived the fires, the floods, and even the
prohibition, when the alcohol and gambling was moved upstairs and out of sight
while the soda fountain carried on benignly in the public eye. For over 100
years, Kuk's has been the hub of social life in Northport, and a good
representation of the tenacious nature of the local inhabitants. Fred Skrobian
renamed the establishment “Fred’s Pool Hall” for a while, and at some point in
the 1950s a pool table, bowling machine and shuffleboard game (the latter two
are still operational at Kuk's) were brought in. In the early 1960s, Kuk’s was leased to Bill
Bilson, who called the tavern “Frenchies” for a brief time, but after selling
many of the valuable decorative antiques out of the building, Bilson was unable
to make his payments and the Skrobian’s took over again.
In the late 1950s, Gary Kotzian recollects paying a $5 bill
for a 24 pack of beer and a case of cigars. Too young at that age to legally
buy the beer, he’d pay the $5 in the bar for the cigars, and circle around the
block. Shortly thereafter, a cold 24 pack would be set in the alley behind the
bar, left by the bartender for his retrieval.
In 1968 the Skrobian family sold the bar to Marion L.
(Larry) Kukuk, and it was rechristened with the name it bears today, Kuk's
Tavern. Well into the 60s, the old bordello rooms upstairs were rented out as
private quarters. Before owning the bar, Larry Kukuk had made his mark in the
Northport area after a fatal accident on a sharp curve of highway 7 miles south
of town that is known to this day as Kuk’s Corner. In 1952 Kukuk received a
three-year prison sentence for the negligent deaths of a husband and wife that
left four orphaned sons behind.
a bullet hole in the antique bar |
Over the course of a hundred and twenty five years, three
stray bullet holes have found their resting place in the history of Kuks'
walls, one from a visiting Spokane police officer who was showing off a new
pistol, and one accidental fire that sailed right between the legs and under
the barstool of an old local and drilled a hole in the wooden bar. The third
bullet, above the window in the front of the tavern, keeps it’s story secret – the
truth lost to the ages but speculation and imagination alive and well.
vintage shuffle board game |
Gary and Marian Kotzian bought the bar in 1984 from Larry
Kukuk, who wanted out of the tavern business after 20 years. Gary tells the
story: “One Sunday he comes to me and says, ‘you still interested in buying
that bar? There’s money in the till and beer in the cooler, just go open her up
and start selling.’” - and so they did. Now, 31 years later, they are still
selling beer “the old fashioned way, with a smile and a story or two,” with the
help of daughter Deeann Kotzian, and the support of generations of Northport’s
oldest families.
The years show their work, but Kuk's wears her age like the
proud matriarch that she is. Strong and full of life, if a little bent at the
knees and stooped in the back. The inside walls are plastered with a century of
pop art and advertising – from Custer’s
Last Fight, an original framed promotional print that was distributed
from the Anheuser Busch Company in 1896, and is considered widely to be the
oldest piece of “breweriana” (or brewing memorabilia) in the United States, to Cindy
Crawford for Bud Light, circa 1987. The 20-foot shuffleboard, a glittery mirror
ball from the 1970s, an internet based jukebox, free wifi, and an old bowling
game round out the recreational offerings that Kuk's advertises, and in recent
years the tavern has expanded to offer spirits as well. Every Tuesday night for
the last six years has been “taco Tuesday”, where you can buy two tacos for a
$1.50, and win a spot on the wall of fame if you can beat the record of eating
35 tacos in one sitting. Other food is available in house, or to go, for the
under 21 crowd that isn’t allowed to dine in.
Custer's Last Fight, 1896 |
The next time the road calls you north, don’t forget to
swing in to Kuk’s for a cold drink and remember our State as it was when it was
born, young, wild and full of life, untempered and untamed.
The Blue Bird Tavern in Bickleton, WA has been in operation since 1887.
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